[GekkoGalaksen]

Fantastiskt att komma upp idag på morgonen och se den lille vandra omkring i äggburken.
Vi var bara tvungna att föreviga den

[Nikazo]

så fin den var

[Dendroaspis]

Neimen! Så søøt. Jeg kjøpte et voksent par for 2 uker siden, og først døde hunnen og 3 dager etter døde hannen. Jeg fant noen bittesmå egg, som jeg håper jeg får noen dyr av. Hvordan holder dere eggene?

[Nikazo]

får bare mer lyst på disse

[GekkoGalaksen]

Det är ju synd att det är så långt mellan oss...annars hade det bara varit och hämta några stycken här. Nu kläcks det nya hela tiden.

[Dendroaspis]

Opprinnelig postet av GekkoGalaksen

Det är ju synd att det är så långt mellan oss...annars hade det bara varit och hämta några stycken här. Nu kläcks det nya hela tiden.

Ja, det var synd. Jeg vil gjerne få tak i flere. Jeg så noen på dyrebutikken her i sentrum og de kostet 250 kr. stykke , og de var bare 2 cm lange. Jeg har 6 eller 7 egg oppi et plastbeger på fuktig kjøkken papir. Jeg krysser fingrene.

[Tony]

Dendroaspis, var det på oze du kjøpte de? jeg har også en slik pinne derifra, damen døde dagen jeg fikk den, (to dager etter eventen)
mannen lever fortsatt, men har knapt spist siden den kom hjem, men virker som om den er på bedringens vei da

håper eggene blir noe, vet du klekke tiden på de eller?

[Dendroaspis]

Opprinnelig postet av pisani

Dendroaspis, var det på oze du kjøpte de? jeg har også en slik pinne derifra, damen døde dagen jeg fikk den, (to dager etter eventen)
mannen lever fortsatt, men har knapt spist siden den kom hjem, men virker som om den er på bedringens vei da

håper eggene blir noe, vet du klekke tiden på de eller?

Ja, jeg kjøpte dem der. De var kanskje gamle, siden de døde så fort og jeg fikk knapt noen egg. Det var ganske vanskelig å finne en care sheet på disse. Den eneste litt ordentlig forklarende (og jeg håper den er riktig) er:

Peruphasma schultei
pics on www.Phasmatodea.com ::
Origin:
• Cordillera del Condor, 1200 – 1800m, Northern-Peru
Breeding:
• this is one of the most beautiful species in culture today
• easy to breed at room temperatures
• egg take 3-4 months to hatch and nymphs grow up in about 5 months. Do not keep the eggs very humid, they do not suffer if kept dry for a short time
• females are 7 cm, males 6 cm long. Both sexes have bright red wings which they display often when handled
• an airy, well ventilated cage with dry paper on the ground is best. Do not keep this species in high humidity. You may provide them with a cup of water, filled with paper tissue for them to drink water. They do well even in small cages.
• there is some chance that nymphs and adults will drown in the container for the food plants – therefore cover the container with cotton wool
• they feed readily on privet (Ligustrum sp.) and Lonicera sp. (which is a common garden plant)
• Warning: this species can spray a defensive liquide from glands just behind the head when handled. This liquid irritates the eyes for a short while, not really harmful but better to avoid it
have fun with this species and distribute them
I would be happy to hear from you about your experiences
Bruno Kneubühler (Switzerland)
gopala@bluewin.ch
Phasmatodea
Some general notes how I breed phasmids:
• cut / trim leave margins with scissors, this often makes it easier for nymphs to start feeding
• be careful with tap water - it might be chlorinated and thus harmful to insects (as it is for humans). To be safe, boil water without a lid for some 10 minutes or buy mineral water
• eggs are incubated on paper tissue which is not bleached with chlorine
• boxes used for incubating eggs should be appropriate to the size of the nymphs hatching. If too small, then nymphs will be crippled or have bended legs or body
• neither keep phasmid eggs on soaking wet substrate, nor let them dry up for a prolonged time
• here you can see a pic of one of my phasmid egg incubation boxes:
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...bation-box.jpg
The sand serves as a reservoir for humidity. Thus you do not have to check the humidity so often.
• keep phasmids in cages which are well ventilated. For species which need a higher humidity and for nymphs, keep up humidity by spraying them regularly with water and a wet paper tissue or soil on the cage floor
• phasmids in overcrowded cages tend to be much more stressed. As a result moulting problems will be more common, they will more often loose legs and chew on each others body parts. Use your common sense to find out whether a cage is overcrowded or not - sensitivity is a strength in this hobby too
• regularly clean cages, egg incubation boxes and flasks used for food plants (even pigs to not like to live in their own stool - although some two-legged pigs make them live that way)
• there is always a wet paper tissue on the bottom of my cages. During spring until autumn I spray the cages only 1-3 times a week. In winter, due to low humidity in my phasmid room, cages are being sprayed sometimes more often
• if possible, feed your sticks with more than one food plant - they will be just healthier
• be not shy trying to feed your sticks other plants - and communicate your discovery to me and other !
• if you live in a country where phasmids might survive winter, be especially careful that they do not escape
• spingtails (Collembola) are being used to control fungus / mould growth in the incubation containers – this is really recommended. Collect them in the wild, check the flower pots in your appartement or get them from poison dart frog breeders of pet shops. I am not selling or shipping these little helpers ! Put some phasmid dung in the container where you are incubating your phasmid eggs. This dung serves as food for the springtails and thus they will multiply. So far I have not seen any instance where these springtails became harmful for the phasmid eggs or the hatching nymphs. If you keep springtails in your incubation boxes, then do not let them dry up - springtails die immediately when kept dry.
See here a pic how to prepare an incubation box for the springtails:
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...pringtails.jpg
Breeding springtails is very easy - use a plastic box, cut a big hole in the lid, cover the hole with a fine tissue (e.g. stockings), put some moist moss or straw in it, add quite a bit of phasmid dung and of course some springtails.

Det var ganske langt men jeg husker f... meg ikke hvor jeg fant denne linken. Linkene til bildene funker ikke lenger, dessverre .
Som sagt øverst, tar det ca. 3 - 4 måneder før det blir nymfer av eggene.

[Tony]

det som står der ser jo greit ut syntes jeg, vil tippe det stemmer ganske greit.

har hørt om flere som mistet pinne de har kjøpt på oze. ganske kjipt, bare glad hannen min hvertfall lever jeg, så må jeg skaffe en dame til den snart, så ting begynner å skje=)

[GekkoGalaksen]

250 kr styck
Huuu...tjaa, om någon har vägarna förbi Danmark, så skänker vi gärna bort dom vi har i överskott.